23 Oct Hiking the Nüümü Poyo Trail (aka The John Muir Trail) 2024 – a Photo Essay
by Jen Astone
Indigenous Presence on the Trail
In recognition of the Ahwahnechee, Paiute, Miwuk, Mono and other tribes who have kept the land in balance through controlled burns and other strategies, I encourage everyone to learn more about the work of Jolie Varela (Bishop Paiute/Tule River Yokut) and Indigenous Women Hike on Instagram and Facebook. Tazbah Chavez wrote for Project 562’s blog on Hiking the Nüümü Poyo and their video is here. Jolie Varela is currently seeking donations for their equipment shed, funds for their work and help to build their work via time and organization.
Find my reflections below the photo essay.
Photos from the Trip
Preparation
I focused on three elements: training, research and practice. Since I made a commitment to carving out the time and energy for the Trail in 2024 in the summer of 2023, I had plenty of time for all three but the challenge was in execution.
My training schedule got slammed when I injured my knee in October 2023 so I started training in January after physical therapy. Luckily, I hiked in Nisene Marks forest in the evenings and on the weekends starting with 1-2 hours of hills and eventually getting up to 5 hours (3 to 12 miles) and adding a backpack at the end. Yet, I was worried because I was not hiking at elevation (most the NPT trail is between 9,500 and 12,000 feet).
Research involved revamping my entire backpacking kit to go ultralight. My usual set-up for backpacking 4 to 6 nights is about 40-45 pounds and I knew to go for over 200 miles, I would need to rethink my gear. My 61-year-old legs would need every advantage I could get. Experts suggest that you tackle reducing the weight of your big three: backpack, shelter and sleeping bag before worrying about everything else. I purchased an ultralight quilt at 20 oz rated to 20 degrees, a Big Agnes UL1 person tent (a compromise at 38 oz, many opt for lighter tarps and single wall tents), and a Durston Kakwa 55 liter backpack at 32 oz. See my pack list here – https://lighterpack.com/r/jhn1xs
Practice
I tried everything out on two solo backpacking trips: one overnighter in Wildcat Beach in Point Reyes and one 2-nighter to Chilnaulna Falls in Yosemite. Both times, I got my butt kicked by mud, heat and wind, got valuable insights about my gear, figured out what I forgot, and what I did not need. I made mistakes but I got to practice making my gear work and adjust my attitude. What is fun? For my first trip, my water filter failed me and so I had to use back up iodine tablets. I tried out all my gear after that.
Pace
The two things I got right besides my equipment was my pacing and my food. Yes, I had some long days of 16-18 miles but there were also shorter days of 8-12 miles. Two zero days were sandwiched into the three weeks providing me with two full nights of sleep in a bed. I relished those restful nights that gave me energy to keep on hiking. Besides a reasonable pace, I worked hard to prepare homemade dehydrated meals that were delicious and full of calories and the right portions of carbohydrates, proteins and fats. A big part of that was making the meals and then testing them for portion size and taste. Quite a few of them got nixed by my husband and son as inedible! I knew I had a few keeper dinners when they said they’d eat them even at home.
Perspective
After five days, I started hiking solo for 10 days. In the morning, I would greet the earth, the trees, the rocks, the plants and the animals. I liked talking to them and felt their presence as companions on my hike. Below are a few insights I took away from the trip.
- Preparation makes a difference.
- Take small steps.
- Take 100 steps and take a break.
- Walk with friends to encourage you.
- Know where you are going – don’t be afraid to ask for directions.
- Appreciate the land and beauty around you. Look up, look back and look forward.
- Slow pace does not equal inability to accomplish the task.
- We all have it in ourselves – we may be slower than others.
- Appreciate physical and mental limits if sick or tired, rest or get off the trail until healthy.
- And the land is magnificent. Wonderous. Outrageously diverse, complex and beautiful.